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Candle making class

Candle making: strong-smelling candles that burn clean

Everything you need to make container candles at home or for your brand: choosing wax and wicks, how much fragrance to add and when, curing, test burning and fixing common problems.

6 lessons2–3 hoursBeginner → business
Lesson 1

Choose your wax

The wax decides the look, the scent throw and how you work.

Candle waxes
WaxLook & feelScent throwNotes
Soy container waxCreamy, matte, may ‘frost’Good cold throw, gentle hot throwNatural, popular, needs 1–2 weeks cure
Paraffin container waxSmooth, glossy, takes colour wellStrong hot throwCures in a few days, easy to work
Soy-paraffin blendSmooth with fewer flawsStrongA good balance for brands
Coconut-soy / coconut-apricotVery creamy and smoothExcellentPremium, softer wax
BeeswaxGolden, honey smellWeak with added fragranceUsually unscented or lightly scented
Pillar waxHard, holds its shapeModerateFor free-standing candles, not jars
Perfumer’s tip Buy wax made for the job: container wax for jars and tins, pillar wax for free-standing candles. Each wax has a maximum fragrance load on its data sheet: don’t exceed it.
Lesson 2

Vessels and wicks

The most common reason a candle fails is the wrong wick.

Choose a heat-safe vessel: thick glass made for candles, metal tins or glazed ceramic. Avoid thin decorative glass, which can crack. Measure the inside diameter; the wick must create a melt pool that reaches the edge in about 2–4 hours.

A starting guide: always test (wick series like ECO, CD, HTP and LX size differently)
Jar diameter (inside)Wick directionNotes
5–6 cmSmall single wickVotives, small tins
6–8 cmMedium single wickMost standard jars
8–9 cmLarge single wickTest carefully: soot risk
9–11 cmTwo wicksSpread evenly
Over 11 cmThree wicksThree-wick bowls

Heavily fragranced and dark-coloured candles often need a slightly smaller wick; vanilla-rich scents burn hotter. Cotton wicks are standard; wooden wicks give a crackle but need their own testing.

  1. Pick two or three wick sizes

    Based on the supplier’s chart for your wax and diameter.

  2. Pour one test candle per wick

    Same wax, fragrance and load.

  3. Test burn

    Burn 3–4 hours. Check melt pool, flame height and soot.

  4. Choose

    The smallest wick that reaches a full melt pool without a big, flickering flame.

Lesson 3

Fragrance load and temperatures

How much oil to add, and when.

Fragrance load is the amount of fragrance oil as a percentage of the wax weight. Most container waxes take 6–10%; some allow up to 12%. More isn’t always stronger: above the wax’s limit, oil can sweat out of the candle and burn poorly.

Calculator

Candle batch calculator

Fill per candle
Wax to melt
Fragrance oil
Wicks

Weigh, don’t measure. Soy wax is about 0.86–0.9 g/ml, paraffin about 0.9. Add 5% extra for losses in the jug.

Typical temperatures (follow your wax supplier’s sheet)
StepSoy (typical)Paraffin (typical)
Melt to80–85 °C80–85 °C
Add fragrance at80–85 °C, stir 2 minutes75–80 °C, stir 2 minutes
Pour at55–65 °C65–75 °C
Cure1–2 weeks2–5 days
Safety Never heat wax directly on a flame or leave it unattended; use a double boiler or a temperature-controlled melter and a thermometer. Wax fires can’t be put out with water: cover the pot with a lid and switch off the heat. Check the fragrance oil’s flash point on its safety data sheet.
Lesson 4

Making the candle, step by step

A repeatable method for clean, smooth candles.

  1. Prepare

    Clean and warm the jars (a warm jar reduces wet spots). Stick the wicks centred to the base with wick stickers.

  2. Melt

    Melt the weighed wax to about 80–85 °C.

  3. Add fragrance

    Take off the heat, add the weighed fragrance oil and any dye, and stir gently but thoroughly for 2 minutes.

  4. Cool to pour temperature

    Let it cool to your wax’s pour temperature.

  5. Pour

    Pour slowly to avoid air bubbles, leaving 1–1.5 cm headspace. Hold the wick straight with a wick bar or clothes peg.

  6. Cool slowly

    Let candles cool at room temperature, away from fans and cold windows, for 24 hours.

  7. Trim and cure

    Trim wicks to 5–6 mm, close the lids and cure (soy 1–2 weeks) before test burning or selling.

Formula

Starter recipe: 10 × 200 ml soy candles

Makes about ten 200 ml jars filled to 85%. Change the batch to scale.

MaterialParts%AmountWhy it’s there
Soy container wax135092.53%–The candle body
Fragrance oil (8%)1087.4%–Scent
Candle dye (optional)10.07%–Colour, a few chips
Total1459100%–
Lesson 5

Burn testing and safety

A candle isn’t ready to sell until you’ve burned it.

  1. First burn

    Burn until the melt pool reaches the edges (usually 2–4 hours). This sets the ‘memory’ for later burns.

  2. Watch

    Flame should be steady, about 1–2.5 cm tall, with little or no black smoke.

  3. Check the melt pool

    About 0.5–1 cm deep is typical. Much deeper means the wick is too large.

  4. Measure the throw

    Rate cold and hot throw in a closed room at 30 minutes and 2 hours.

  5. Burn to the end

    Test several burns down to the last 1 cm and check the jar doesn’t get too hot.

Safety labels

  • Never leave a burning candle unattended.
  • Keep away from children, pets and anything that can catch fire.
  • Burn on a heat-resistant surface, out of draughts.
  • Trim the wick to 5 mm before each burn; stop when 1 cm of wax remains.
  • Include the fragrance’s allergen information and hazard statements from its safety data sheet where required.
Perfumer’s tip Candles and reed diffusers sit in their own IFRA category with higher limits than skin products. Ask your fragrance supplier for the certificate and use only fragrance oils meant for candles.
Lesson 6

Troubleshooting

Fix the usual problems quickly.

Candle problems
ProblemCauseFix
TunnellingWick too small, or first burn too shortBigger wick; burn longer the first time
Mushrooming / sootWick too big or not trimmed; too much fragrance or dyeSmaller wick; trim to 5 mm; reduce load
Weak hot throwNot cured, wrong wick, load too low, or oil added too coolCure longer; test wicks; add oil at 80–85 °C
Sweating (oil on top)Load above the wax’s limit, or temperature swingsLower the load; store at stable temperature
Frosting (white crystals)Natural for soy waxPour a little cooler; use a blend; it doesn’t affect burning
Wet spots (glass)Wax pulling away from the jarWarm the jars; cool slowly; it’s cosmetic
Sinkholes / cracksCooling too fastCool slowly; poke relief holes and top up
Flame drownsWick too small or load too highLarger wick; lower load
Quick check

Final quiz

1. Fragrance load is usually a percentage of…
2. Your candle tunnels. What’s the likely cause?
3. How long should soy candles cure?
4. Black smoke and a big flame mean…
Candle making class

Questions, answered

Something not covered? Ask us and we will add it to the class.

How much fragrance oil per kg of wax?

Usually 60–100 g per kg of wax (6–10%). Start at 8% and adjust after test burns, staying within the wax’s maximum.

Can I use essential oils or perfume oils in candles?

Use fragrance oils made for candles. Some essential oils have low flash points or weak throw, and perfume oils aren’t always tested for burning.

Why doesn’t my candle smell when it burns?

Usually the candle wasn’t cured long enough, the wick is wrong, or the oil was added too cool. Test these one at a time.

What is the best wax for a candle business in Pakistan?

Many brands use a soy-paraffin blend for strong throw and smooth looks, or premium coconut-soy for luxury lines. Heat can soften soy in summer, so choose a wax with a suitable melt point.

Ready to make it?

Make candles with our oils

Candle fragrance oils made to perform in wax, from 100 g to bulk.

Buying for

Cash on delivery across Pakistan and a flat Rs 300 delivery charge.

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